Little Tessy can't seem to catch a break at all lately! UGH!!! The poor little french lop just turned 14 weeks old and after recovering from bloat last week has developed fluid in her lungs so back on antibiotics she goes to fix her up again! day one was last night and it will be another 7 to 10 (most likely 10) days on the Baytril.... Lots of love, cuddles and yogurt and treats from me, grandma and her momma! Hoping to have her back in tip top shape before too long :)
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Will you think of me inside my hutch, That tiny starter pack. That does not let me hop around, And starts to hurt my back? Will you think of me tomorrow, When you go to work or school. With a lovely lunch packed in your bag, Cause I get hungry too.... Will you think of me, just sometimes please? My hutch, it smells so bad, I'd love some water in my bowl, And some hay, I'd be so glad! Will you think of me when the sun shines bright, And it's wonderfully hot, But I can't get cool, this heart is so cruel. Don't tell me you forgot! Will you think of me when the north winds blow And my hutch floors turn to ice, And I'm shivering cold while you're all warm, underneath your quilt so nice? Will you think of me? Please think of me! I'm helpless and at your mercy! Why did you buy me on a whim? Why did you desert me? I can binkie over rainbows now, I am happy and free. But I wonder now that I am gone, Will you ever think of me? After my over a week long battle trough Bloat with my 12 week old French Lop Doe, Tessy, she is finally on the right track and better. After compiling information from other Blogs and websites in a previous Blog, I asked many questions to those breeders I can trust on how THEY deal with this horrible
ailment if one of their rabbits falls ill with it. In response I heard many good outcomes unlike the horrific ones stated online! First, you should know the signs and symptoms of Bloat in rabbits: A rabbit suffering from Bloat will be listless and uncomfortable;they will stop eating and may be thirstier than usual. They will also not lay down or stretch out due to them being in pain and or uncomfy. They may also grind their teeth if pain is severe enough. They will also quit pooping due to their tummy not functioning properly. Their tummy may make a gargling sound or also sound as though fluids are moving around in there. Second, you should always seek veterinary/professional help BEFORE trying to treat it on your own. I am not telling you how to treat your rabbit only ways that myself, and other breeders have had success with treating them. Things you can do to relieve and get rid of Bloat in your bunny: 1. Remove food from cage and replace with Timothy Hay to help get their tummy moving again 2. Give them infant gas relief drops found at any drug store 3. Pedialyte can be given to help keep up their electrolytes, strength and help calm their tummy 4. Yogurt with no less than 3 active bacteria in it is a great way to get them back up and going if anti-biotics are needed to get good bacteria back into their tummy 5. A good probiotic paste is also good to help get them on track again, you can find these at any local tractor or farm supply store 6. It is also important to keep them active and moving. After gas drops and yogurt, let them run or make them hop around 7. Feed Gripe water 8. Pineapple juice and cat hairball relief will help if it is caused by a hairball 9. Feed regular oatmeal, old fashioned not instant 10. Feed plenty of fiber as found in Hay, grains, seeds and berries 11. Apple cider vinegar in the water 12. Neomycin 13. Whole rolled oats or regular oats 14. Entracare aqua 15. Pro C 16. Infactol 17. Canned pumpkin, regular not pie filling 18. If back bones are very pronounced and noticeable, try worming them 19. A warm bath will help alleviate their pain from the Bloat and following it by a nice gentle massage by laying them on their back and massaging their tummy Diet essentials A Good Rabbit Diet Should Include Daily Fresh Vegetables Include a variety of vegetables from the list below. (Those containing a high level of Vitamin A are indicated by an *. Feed at least one of these each day.)
Pellets: Pellets are most important in the younger stages of rabbit development because they are highly concentrated in nutrients, helping to ensure proper weight gain. A quality pelleted food should be high in fiber (18% minimum) and nutritionally balanced. As a rabbit reaches maturity, however, pellets should make up less of the diet – replaced with higher quantities of hay and vegetables. Overfeeding pellets in mature rabbits can lead to obesity and other medical conditions. Hay: Rabbits should have fresh hay available 24 hours a day. Rabbits less than 7 months old may have alfalfa hay, but older rabbits should have grass hays such as timothy or oat hay. Hay is essential to a rabbit's good health, providing the roughage that helps reduce the danger of hairballs and other blockages. Water: Fresh water should be available to your pet around the clock, as well. Each day, change the water in the dish or water bottle with fresh water. On a weekly basis, sanitize the water dish/bottle with a mild dish detergent and rinse thoroughly before adding drinking water. Vegetables: Vegetables provide valuable roughage, as well as essential vitamins. As early as 3 months of age, you can begin to offer vegetables. Introduce new vegetables one at a time. This way, if a digestive upset occurs, you will know which food may be the culprit. Eliminate those that cause soft stools or diarrhea. Continue to add new varieties, including both dark leafy vegetables and root vegetables, and serve vegetables of different colors. Once your rabbit is used to several vegetables, feed him or her at least three different kinds daily for a mix of nutrients. Kale, mustard greens, and spinach contain high levels of oxalates (the salts of oxalic acid), which can accumulate in the system and cause toxicity over time. Rather than eliminating these veggies from your list (because they are highly nutritious and loved by most rabbits), limit your use of them to 1 or 2 meals per week. Chewing items: In addition to nutrition, hay and vegetables are also important to your rabbit's dental health. A diet that requires little chewing produces uneven tooth wear, causing enamel to grow on the sides of the teeth. These spikes can cause severe oral pain and excessive salivation (often called "slobbers"). They also cause reluctance to chew, inability to close the mouth, and reduced food intake. The situation deteriorates as the teeth continue to grow, and, if it is not treated, results in severe malnutrition. In addition to hay and vegetables, you will want to provide your rabbit with chew sticks or gnaw "bones" of untreated wood of various sizes and shapes. Cardboard tubes and untreated wicker can also be used. Treats: Treats, including fresh fruits, should be given sparingly because of their calorie content. Rabbits can digest small quantities of oats and barley, but again, they generally provide more calories than necessary. And, too much carbohydrate has been associated with enteritis in rabbits. Feeding rabbits through their stages of development Like human beings, rabbits need to be fed differently at different stages of their growth to ensure healthy development, digestion, and weight. Throughout a rabbit's life, avoid any sudden changes in diet; new foods should always be introduced gradually. Remember to keep fresh clean water available at all times, too. Water bottles versus dishes are recommended. Baby rabbits: A baby rabbit, or kit, feeds solely on its mother's milk for about the first three weeks. During the first few days, the milk contains high levels of antibodies that help protect the kit from disease. After three weeks, the kit will begin nibbling on alfalfa hay and pellets. By 7 weeks of age, baby rabbits can handle unlimited access to pellets and alfalfa hay in addition to mother's milk. Kits are usually weaned from their mother's milk by 8 weeks of age, depending on the breed. Juveniles: Between weaning and 7 months of age, the young rabbit can have an unlimited amount of pellets and alfalfa hay. At 3 months of age, start introducing small amounts of vegetables into your rabbit's diet. Introduce one vegetable at a time. If any vegetable seems to cause digestive problems, avoid feeding it in the future. Young adults: Young adult rabbits from age 7 months to 1 year should be introduced to timothy, grass hays, and/or oat hay, and it should be available all day long. The fiber in the hay is essential for their digestive systems to work properly. At this point, they will require little alfalfa hay, as well as fewer pellets. Alfalfa hay has more calories and calcium than rabbits need at this stage of development, and the high calorie content of pellets can also begin to cause weight problems. Instead of offering unlimited pellets, a good rule of thumb is 1/2 cup of pellets per 6 lbs. of body weight daily. To make up for the nutritional loss, you must increase your rabbit's intake of vegetables and hay. You can feed your rabbit some fruits during this stage, but because of calories, limit them to no more than 1-2 ounces per 6 pounds of body weight daily. Mature adults: Mature adult rabbits should be fed unlimited timothy, grass hay, and oat hay. Once again, you should reduce the pellet portion of the diet. A standard guideline is 1/4 cup of pellets per 6 lbs. of body weight per day. Several servings of vegetables are required (2 cups per 6 pounds of body weight daily). Make sure to choose dark, leafy greens, and feed at least three different kinds daily. Iceberg or other light-colored varieties are NOT nutritious. Also, make sure you are offering dark yellow and orange vegetables. Treats, including fruits, must be fed sparingly. Seniors: Senior rabbits over 6 years of age can be fed the same diet as mature adults if they do not have weight loss problems. You may need to increase pellet intake if your pet is not able to maintain his or her weight. Alfalfa can also be given to underweight rabbits, but only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for senior rabbits to determine the level of calcium and other components of the blood. Plants and Herbs That Are Safe For Rabbits To Eat
Fruits That Are Safe For Rabbits To Eat
Vegetables That Are Safe For Rabbits To Eat
Feeding Guidelines Feed fresh food in moderation, particularly fruit as it has a high sugar content. Any new food should be introduced gradually, as a sudden change in diet can upset your rabbit’s digestive system. Make sure that any plants, fruit or vegetables you feed to your rabbit are clean and free from chemicals such as pesticides. Do not leave fresh food to go mouldy. If your rabbit does not eat the fresh food while it is still fresh, remove it. Apple (not seeds) Artichoke Arugula Asparagus Banana Basil Beet tops Blackberry (leaves, stems, fruit) Blueberry Broccoli Brussel sprouts Cantaloupe Caraway Carrot (tops and root) Celery Chard Chives (in moderation) Cilantro Clover Collard greens Cucumber Dandelion (leaves, stem, flower) Dill Endive Escarole Fennel Zucchini Grapes Green pepper Honeydew Melon Kale Lemon balm Lettuce (romaine, red & green leaf) Lilac Marigold Marjoram Mint Mustard greens Papaya (no seeds) Parsley Peach Pear Pineapple Radish Tops Raspberry (leaves, stems, fruit) Sage Savory Spinach Strawberry Tomato (fruit only; greens are toxic) Watermelon Watercress Fruit should always be given in moderation as the high sugar content may cause diarrhea. Introduce fruits and vegetables slowly over several weeks. Remember no pesticides Rabbit Bloat is a condition which is only too familiar to the breeder. It is a condition where the animal becomes 'blown-up' by the accumulation of a large amount of gas in the abdomen. There are undoubtedly a number of causes which produce this disorder. It may be produced by feeding an excessive amount of fresh young Lucerne or clover, and it has been suggested that young white clover will always produce the condition, although this is not proven. The condition is certainly not infectious, but there appears to be, in some cases, an inherited predisposition. The rabbit sits huddled in a corner and is very inactive. The coat appears dull and the eye glazed. In some cases the rabbit is exceptionally thirsty and will consume quantities of water, although all food is refused. The abdomen becomes swollen with gas and the animal often grinds its teeth in pain. Death usually results after a day or two from excessive pressure on the lungs and heart. In some cases the stomach may rupture. A second form of the disorder is known as mucoid enteritis, and in this form a quantity of mucous is produced in the intestines and forms a gelatinous mass. Although a considerable amount of research has been carried out, the causes of the disease have not been traced, and no reliable treatment has been discovered. The rabbit will benefit if made to take exercise, and massage with a good liniment which produces a slight irritation on the belly has been found to help. The most reliable treatment, which has been efficacious in more than half the cases in which it has been tried, is the use of an enema of soft soap and water. Pure green soap is dissolved in warm water, and the solution injected carefully into the anus with a rubber bulb ear syringe. The recent use of antibiotics has been found to reduce the amount of bloat greatly, in some cases by as much as 75 percent. A rare disease, which has as its main symptom, the production of bloat is enterotoxaemia, which is a bacterial disease in which the kidneys become soft and pulpy. This trouble almost always occurs when animals arc being grazed in Morant type hutches and in cold weather. The eating of frozen food appears to cause some damage which enables bacteria to gain entrance into the intestinal wall. No treatment is available for this condition. http://www.petcaregt.com/rabbits/rabbitbloat.html True bloat (not to be confused with stasis/ileus – reduced motility of the intestine, or the presence of some gas in the digestive system caused by food) is a dreaded condition in rabbits, with poor prognosis. True bloat is probably the most painful disorders that a rabbit can suffer from, and rabbit savvy vets often opt to humanely put the rabbit to sleep, to spare it more suffering. Bloat is due to an abnormal collection of gas that leads to an extreme distension of the stomach, and/or or cecum. The stomach feels hard and the rabbit looks like a “balloon”. It can make noised like a “waterfall”. The rabbit shows signs of terrible pain and has difficulties to breath properly. When bloat reaches a certain point in rabbits, it becomes irreversible. This is due to the facts that the stomach wall of rabbits is not as elastic as in many other animals. The distended stomach (its volume can double) will compress the main blood vessels that lead blood to and from the heart. Blood flow becomes irregular, and rarely blocked, causing disturbances of the cardiac rhythm. At this point, the condition is fatal. Causes of bloat remain unknown. It may related to overeating, exercising immediately after eating are suspected in most animals, lack of fiber in the diet, change of diet, excessive drinking or stress, or result from a pyloric blockage or other digestive problems. Once fully bloated, most rabbits do not survived longer than a few hours to a day after diagnosis. Opioid pain drugs, fluids, antibiotics and simethicone bring little to no relief. Putting the rabbit on its side may help. A handful of rabbits were saved by intubation with a rubber catheter and aspiration of the content and gas of the stomach. The majority died within 24 hours after relief of pressure on the stomach. Rarely, when intubation is difficult, excessive vagal stimulation caused a rapid death of the rabbit. When in uncertainty about bloat, if the rabbit is hypothermic or not, refrain from feeding it, to avoid overload an already distended stomach, a compromised digestive system, and contact your vet asap. http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Mechanical_diseases/bloat.htm Bloat is a condition where the stomach becomes stretched by excessive gas content. The gas is caused by the bacteria in a rabbit's stomach multiplying excessively as a result of incorrect feeding. This may be because the rabbit has eaten wet green food or grass clippings, mouldy hay or simply as a result of irregular feeding. - hard, swollen stomach - shortness of breath - restlessness Bloat can be fatal within a very short space of time and can only be treated by a vet. Avoid feeding your rabbit wet green food and keep to a regular feeding pattern with lots of hay. Never feed your rabbit grass clippings. http://www.bunnyhugga.com/bloat.html One of the most disturbing conditions any bunny parent will face is GI Stasis. This condition usually develops gradually, is marked by a slowdown in GI motility, and now offers a good prognosis since a proven medical protocol has been established. The best advice I can give anyone is to follow Dana Kremple's guidance in her article, "GI Stasis: The Silent Killer." This article provides crucial and lifesaving information for anyone helping their buns through this ordeal. I contend there is an even greater threat, and one that is more difficult to recognize: Bloat. My husband and I faced this frightening ordeal with our 5-year old minilop Pokey in July 2002. One day he was fine and the next day he almost died. Since then, I have made it my focus to learn everything I can about this poorly recognized and usually fatal condition. I have seen more buns succumb to bloat in the past year, making me realize how important it is to educate as many people as possible. I have conducted a literature review, albeit limited, and spoken with many people in an effort to understand and try to make sense of this condition. The only mention of bloat in the literature is from the UK, most notably by veterinarians Paul Flecknell and Frances Harcourt-Brown. I have based this paper on this literature, but have also taken some liberties based on my personal experience, and my professional education and training. The rabbit's GI tract is subject to many threats by its very nature. It remains my belief that bloat is an entirely different phenomenon from GI Stasis, one that requires immediate veterinary intervention. Here's our story. One day, our minilop, Pokey, was eating, drinking, eliminating and playing normally. The next morning we noticed he had not eaten his 11PM salad from the night before. He was hunched up in the back of his room and didn't want to come out and run which was very unusual for him. I immediately checked for bowel sounds (which were diminished), gave him some simethicone that he did not respond to, and called our vet. Our vet examined Pokey that same morning and confirmed my suspicions of GI Stasis. Pokey's temperature was 99.4F with an ear thermometer (this was a significant finding, but was not addressed at the time). His abdominal x-ray revealed an overly distended stomach with a huge, well-defined gas bubble inside the stomach. In comparison, this x-ray was a lot different looking from Pokey's previous x-ray during an episode of GI Stasis. I had never seen anything like this in rabbits despite looking at years of rabbit x-rays in my vet's office. And it developed overnight! Pokey was sent home to reduce the stress of being at the vet's. We gave him subcutaneous fluids, simethicone, and limited his food intake to just hay and water. Pokey continued to lie around for a few more hours and then we heard his teeth chattering. It was such a loud noise, I didn't realize what it was at first. I grabbed him out of his room, took his rectal temp, which was 97.7F, placed him on a heating pad, and called our vet. Within minutes we were sure Pokey was going to die. His eyes were dull, he was having trouble regulating his temperature, his breathing was fast and labored, and the pain was overwhelming him. My husband and I rushed him to the vet, wrapped in towels. They were waiting for him and immediately gave him a shot of Torbutrol (butorphanol) for pain. His rectal temp had increased to 100F. That's when my vet told me if Pokey were a dog, she would think he had bloat. This condition is a medical emergency that many dogs and cows succumb to. The prognosis is poor in rabbits. Fortunately, and rather miraculously, with continuous at home care aimed at relieving the symptoms, Pokey recovered. Other buns have not been so lucky. I believe this is because most vets in this country do not realize or understand that bloat exists in rabbits. Pokey's story is not unusual. Since his bloat episode, many people from across the country have contacted me with similar stories. After 2 foster rabbits developed bloat and died within hours of its onset in September 2003, I realized how imperative it is to get this information out. GI Stasis VS Bloat: Having cared for many rabbits through the years, I have witnessed GI Stasis and Bloat. There are subtle differences between the two conditions, but prompt recognition and treatment determine the outcome. Whereas GI Stasis has a prognosis of fair to good, the prognosis for bloat is poor to guarded. GI Stasis develops slowly, and it is usually several days before you suspect that something "isn't right" with your bunny. You may begin to notice that he eats his food more slowly, or may even leave his food and come back to it later. Food preferences may change and you may find him preferring hay to his usual meal of pellets and fresh veggies. By the time this happens, your bun is most likely on his way to developing stasis. In my experience the first real indicator that your bun "isn't right" is in his litter box. Subtle changes in fecal pellets, that is, a smaller size, a change in shape from perfectly round to oval, a change in consistency or quantity, often indicates a disruption in digestion. This is the reason it is so important to know what is "normal" for your bunny. It helps you identify the "abnormal" more quickly. While there are many reasons for GI Stasis to develop, you usually have time to get to the vet and initiate medical treatment of subcutaneous fluids, simethicone, analgesics for pain, and possible motility drugs if there is no indication of an obstruction. Unlike GI Stasis, bloat happens suddenly and without warning. One minute your bun is eating, drinking, eliminating, and playing normally, the next minute he is depressed, moribund, and stops eating, drinking, and playing. Just like that. A bunny rapidly decompensates with bloat, and immediate veterinary intervention is crucial to his survival. A lower than normal body temperature (under 100F) usually occurs causing the bun to go into shock. Current literature from the UK reveals bloat is caused by a blockage or obstruction in the GI tract, that may be due to a foreign body (carpet) or tricobezoar (hairball). During postmortem exams on rabbits whose cause of death was GI Stasis or bloat, Dr. Paul Flecknell found an obstruction at the exit to the stomach (pylorus or duodenal flexure). The tissue at this site was often dead (necrotic). He also found instances in which the lining of the stomach had eroded with bleeding present. While not specifically documented, this creates the possibility that ulcers and/or scar tissue could be precursors to bloat. A study by Hinton (1980) showed 7% of all rabbits necropsied had gastric ulcers. Considering the nature of rabbits as prey animals, it makes sense that rabbits could and do develop stress ulcers. It is known that gastric ulceration in rabbits can develop form pain and fear due to catecholamine (epinephrine) release, and also with reduced gut motility such as repeated episodes of stasis. I realize this is mere speculation on my part, but believe this is possible and that more research is needed. Diagnosis: Upon physical exam, symptoms of bloat include dehydration, an "abnormal" feeling abdomen, that is, distended from an accumulation of gas (tympany), and a low body temperature. While blood work may be also be done, an abdominal x-ray is the most diagnostic tool. X-rays carry a significant risk in bloat because the rabbit is often on the verge of cardiovascular collapse due to the pressure the gas places on the chest cavity. Care must first be taken to stabilize the rabbit with fluids and pain meds. It is my experience that rabbits often become non-responsive due to the electrolyte imbalances, pain and shock associated with this condition. Harcourt-Brown states electrolyte imbalances may cause the rabbit to experience twitching, blindness and convulsions in the terminal stages of this condition. The x-ray of a rabbit suffering from bloat reveals a hugely distended stomach located in the upper abdominal area, and may also reveal gas shadows in the small intestine closest to the obstruction. The enlarged stomach places pressure on the chest cavity and compromises lung and heart function. The compression of the chest cavity makes it difficult for the rabbit to breathe, and often leads to heart failure (cardiovascular collapse). However, heart failure is usually secondary to the gas buildup in the stomach and may be the reason bloat is often misdiagnosed. Treatment: Since Pokey's bloat episode, I have been fortunate enough to have my personal vet research and establish a medical protocol for bloat that increases the rabbit's chance of survival. While treatment is not always successful, it provides the rabbit with relief from the gastric distention, and pain medication to deal with the excruciating pain of bloat. This is a comfort to me and I am very grateful to her. None of the other vets in the Washington, DC-Metro area, including the many emergency vet hospitals that treat rabbits, provide this life saving treatment. When the diagnosis of bloat has been determined, the rabbit needs to be given warmed Lactated Ringers solution,preferably intravenously. Rabbits cannot absorb subcutaneous fluids when they are in shock. In addition, an external heat source to regulate body temperature, and analgesics for pain are also necessary. Once the bunny's condition is stabilized, a stomach tube is placed to decompress the stomach. My vet usually uses a red rubber catheter (Fr 15). A 20 cc syringe usually provides enough suction to withdraw the stomach contents manually. A rabbit's mouth and esophagus limits the size of the stomach tube that can be inserted, so that in many cases the small sized tube becomes clogged with food particles and fur. If this happens, the tube needs to be repositioned and gently irrigated until the stomach contents are withdrawn. A rabbit's stomach should never be decompressed with a needle puncture, or peritonitis and death can occur. When the rabbit responds to treatment, he can be given simethicone and have gentle abdominal massage to break up the gas bubbles. As improvement continues he should be encouraged to engage in some mild exercise to reestablish normal GI movement, and provided with a wide variety of veggies to encourage eating. Interest in exercise and eating is a good prognostic sign. There is a possibility that gastric distention associated with bloat can recur. I know of one bun who re-bloated 2 more times during a two-day period and eventually succumbed to this condition. Usually if a rabbit bloats a second time within a two day period, my vet encourages euthanasia. Surgery to remove the obstruction should only be used as a last resort. What To Look For: This article was originally written in layman's terms so everyone would be able to understand the phenomenon of bloat. I now realize the importance of sharing this information with your vet and have included more comprehensive and technical information. However, if you are unable to get to a vet in time, or unable to find a vet willing to tube your bunny, the following is what I learned when Pokey went into bloat and the symptomatic treatment I provided. 1. Be alert to a very sudden change in eating habits. If your bun stops eating his usual meal of pellets and veggies without warning, give him simethicone and call your vet immediately. 2. Check your bun's temperature with a rectal thermometer. The ears regulate the the body temperature. If they start to feel cool to touch, chances are his body temperature is falling. A normal rabbit temp is 102-104F. Any temp under 100F is a medical emergency. This usually means the rabbit's system is shutting down and he is going into shock. Grab a heating pad (on low), and wrap it around your bun. When you transport him, wrap him in warm towels to maintain his body heat. 3. Get your bun to the vet immediately! Often the pain is so great, the bun gives up. A shot of pain medicine was crucial to Pokey's recovery. 4. Fluids are necessary to keep the bun hydrated and to help overcome shock. The quickest and least stressful way to accomplish this is with subcutaneous fluids. Your vet can show you how to do this at home. If your rabbit's condition is too far deteriorated, IV fluids are necessary because subcutaneous fluids cannot be absorbed. Simethicone is necessary to relieve gas buildup. Laxatone is often prescribed but its use is controversial. We gave Pokey a small amount of Laxatone after he was hydrated and it seemed to help. Additionally, Metaclopramide or Cisapride activates the GI system. DO NOT give this without your vet's knowledge because the stomach can rupture if an obstruction is present. 5. Keep your bun in a warm environment. We placed Pokey in a small room upstairs and closed the vent to the AC. The room temperature was 81F all night. I believe this helped him to stay warm. 6. Give your bun a small area to run. Pokey was allowed to roam around if he wanted to, which he did. Exercise encourages the GI System to move. In addition, a gentle stomach massage can help break up the gas as well. The next morning (Day 2) Pokey's temperature was 102.4F and he started to eat hay and passed tiny, misshapened fecal pellets. As previously mentioned, I gave him a large dose of Laxatone, which helped him. By noon, he passed a few blobs of foul smelling goop and then passed gas the rest of the day. His bowel sounds became more active and the next day we started feeding him pellets that he ate directly from his food bowl. His diet was gradually advanced and by Day 4, Pokey was back to normal. In comparison, it took 2 weeks of constant home care and daily treatment before he recovered from GI Stasis last year. Having been through these two medical situations with Pokey in the last 1-1/2 years, I firmly believe Bloat can be a primary disorder which can occur suddenly and without warning, as well as a complication of GI Stasis. A special thank you to Wendy Behm, DVM at Blue Ridge Veterinary Associates in Purcellville, VA (540-338-7387) for reviewing this article. For a completed article and a list of references, please email: // Change User Name and Domain Name username="health" at="@" domainname="bunnylu.org" document.write(""+username+""+at+""+domainname+"") [email protected] http://www.bunnylu.org/bloat.php GI Stasis: What Everyone Should Know What is it? Bloat: From: http://www.bunnylu.org/bloat.html Having cared for many rabbits through the years, I have witnessed GI Stasis and Bloat. There are subtle differences between the two conditions, but prompt recognition and treatment determine the outcome. Whereas GI Stasis has a prognosis of fair to good, the prognosis for bloat is poor to guarded. Unlike GI Stasis, bloat happens suddenly and without warning. One minute your bun is eating, drinking, eliminating, and playing normally, the next minute he is depressed, moribund, and stops eating, drinking, and playing. Just like that. A bunny rapidly decompensates with bloat, and immediate veterinary intervention is crucial to his survival. FROM DANA KREMPELS, Yahoo Answers: No one is really sure about the ultimate cause of bloat. It may be bacterial at first, with Clostridium species (possibly perfringens, which produces a lot of gas) producing gas. But because the rabbit intestine just posterior to the stomach takes a very sharp turn, it appears that if the stomach has even a slight blockage or gas buildup that pinches that turn just the wrong way, an irreversible bloat can occur. The only relief is gastric gavage (sticking a tube down the throat to suction out liquid and gas) or even puncturing the stomach with a needle through the body wall. ... Dana Krempels, Ph.D Gas: From: http://www.ontariorabbits.org/hot_topics/hint_9.html Rabbits can - and do - suffer from gas. If ignored, painful gas can cause a rabbit to stop eating and go into gastrointestinal stasis, the slowing or complete cessation of normal intestinal movement. This can be fatal if not treated. Gas can also be the result of stasis. Rabbits that have gas often exhibit one or more of the following symptoms: loud gurgling noises coming from the rabbit's stomach; hard, taut stomach; lethargy; and significant decrease in appetite. Often, this is the first sign of gas. When suffering from gas, some rabbits sit hunched up, with their eyes partially closed, some will sit with their stomachs pressed into the floor, or upright with an unnaturally straight posture. Important: Gastric Dilation (Volvulus) or severe 'bloat' is not the same as a gas episode. With bloat, the stomach becomes extremely hard and grossly distended which can cause the blood supply to be cut off from the stomach or intestine. Bloat can quickly lead to shock and death. If you suspect bloat, do not massage the rabbit's abdomen, which could make the situation worse. Seek immediate veterinarian attention. How To Treat ? *Please note: This protocol is not appropriate for a rabbit suffering from bloat (very hard, distended stomach). Bloat must be immediately resolved by a veterinarian. Do not attempt to treat bloat yourself. Do not attempt to massage a bloated bunny: can lead to lethal complications. Basic At-Home Protocol for Rabbits with Gas - Simethicone: Baby gas meds. Required. - Hydration, Hydration, Hydration: If they will drink on their own, try spiking water with a bit of apple juice or vanilla extract. If they aren't feeling cooperative , syringe some water into their mouths. If you have the knowledge to do sub-cutaneous injection, it is more efficient and faster than oral rehydration.
- Make with the Fibre: Break out the canned pumpkin, and let them eat on their own. Again, uncooperative buns can be coerced with a syringe. - Pro-biotics: Bene-bac will help balance internal systems (gut flora). - Get some exercise: Let bunny out for a scamper, play an active game together to get the body moving both inside and out. - Vibration therapy: When a bun is gassy (stomach distended, but nothard), a gentle tummy rub or massage with a vibrating toothbrush can make break up the gas quite a bit. Plop them on top of the washing machine or dryer for more vibration. - Keep warm!: Methods include towels warmed in the dryer, a Snuggle Safe, a pop bottle full of warm water, a hot water bottle, a rice sock (fill an old sock with rice and microwave a few minutes), or supervised use of a heating pad (to make sure bunny doesn't chew on it). As always, be sure to consult with your veterinarian should the situation not improve significantly. Remember, no gut motility drugs(Propulsid [Cisapride]/Reglan [Metoclopramide]) should be given without an x-ray for blockages. Such administration may have lethal consequences. Read a more in-depth version of the protocol here: GI Stasis: What Everyone Should Know Articles Rabbit References: Gas, Ileus and Stasis, Bloat http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/rabrefs.html#stasis Relieving Gas Episodes http://www.ontariorabbits.org/hot_topics/hint_9.html Bloat http://www.bunnylu.org/bloat.html When A Rabbit Stops Eating: Gas Remedy http://vrra.org/gasremedy.htm http://rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=11931&forum_id=10 Simethicone
U.S. Dosage: Simethicone Liquid: 1 cc by mouth 2 times daily will help keep the gas moving through your bun's digestive tract. French lop rabbits can be characterized by their rather oversize shape and their endearing personality. These pets thrive on attention and they are the result of a cross breeding between the Normandy Giant, the Flemish Giant and the English lop. These rabbits are very popular in rabbit shows. In the United States, they are commonly referred to as “king of the fancy”. These rabbits make extraordinary pets because of their kind nature. These rabbits love to play and be cuddled, which makes them perfect for young kids. French lops can be recognized by their rather large bone structure. Even though the French lop’s ears are not as long as its English cousin’s, they are still big enough to make them stand out. Their coat is usually longer than on most rabbits and they develop what are often called dust ruffles or trousers around their bottom. French lops can be found in all kinds of solid colors, but also broken patterns as well. It is recommended that you do not breed your French lop until it reaches 9 months of age. But it’s very important that the female French lop has her first litter before she reaches her first year. After the first year, the doe’s pelvic bones begin to merge which could make natural birth more difficult. Female French lops tend to have big litters that can range between 5 to 12 kits, so make sure that you are prepared for that. Since French lops tend to be larger than most, they are rather sedentary and don’t require too much activity. They are social pets and they make wonderful family pets when bred right. It is always recommended that you pair your French lop with a partner for company. Like most rabbits, the French lop’s diet is mainly composed of hay and pellets. You can also give your rabbit commercially manufactured treats made especially for them. French lops enjoy veggies such as romaine lettuce, basil and coriander. However, you should never feed your pet gas inducing foods such as cauliflower and broccoli, that could be fatal t them. All in all, French lop rabbit’s make great family pets and they usually require less care than other breeds of lop eared rabbits. If you want to learn more about French lop rabbits, you should attend a rabbit show near you and ask breeders for advice. This way, you’ll know what your pet needs to grow happy and healthy. The first thing to consider is that rabbits have a long life span, so be prepared to care for your pet rabbit through the long term. They are also unique creatures, who form tight bonds with their families, though they have some quirks you should know about. They also require some routine vet care from a good rabbit vet, and are not low maintenance pets. If you are prepared for all the unique qualities and needs of rabbits, you will best be able to fully enjoy the wonderful companionship they can offer.Even the best quality rabbit pellet is not adequate on its own as a diet for pet rabbits. Plenty of fresh grass hay is very important in a rabbit's diet, as are fresh greens and vegetables. The right diet is critical to keeping pet rabbits healthy -- find out the scoop on feeding your rabbit a well balanced and high fiber diet.Rabbits are really quite trainable, but it may take some patience, especially when it comes to litter training and redirecting very natural behaviors like chewing and digging. Rabbit Tips: They LOVE to chew. They may look big, but they can squeeze into the tiniest openings. They need to be groomed and nails clipped just like a dog or cat. They do not need to be bathed. Food they eat. Treats they love. House rabbits need room to run around and they like to hide under things. That's why I have a rabbit room. My rabbits were and are not kept in cages. They had a cage to use as their home, but I never locked them in there. If you can't keep them in a safe environment without caging them, then it's important to know that they need daily exercise. The most important thing is that rabbits LOVE to chew. They will chew any and everythng. I always said if you want a new pair of shoes but need a good reason to buy them. Well, leave your shoes out where a rabbit can get to them (and they will)and soon you will have a good reason to buy your new pair of shoes. See? Problem solved. The rabbit has chewed your shoes! Rabbits are playful, active, and curious, and need a good variety of toys to keep them occupied (and out of trouble!). Many owners are surprised to find out how playful their rabbits are. Most rabbits will appreciate a selection of fun toys, which can be as simple as a cardboard box or empty paper towel roll. Toys will help keep your rabbit physically active and prevent boredom. A bored rabbit is much more likely to become destructive or even depressed and overweight. Deprived of toys and play things, your rabbit may turn to your furniture and other belongings as chew toys, or even dangerous things like electrical cords. Experiment with a variety of toys to find out what is entertaining to your rabbit, and continue to provide new toys (or at least rotate the ones he/she has). While a good selection of toys will help keep your rabbit away from things you do not want him or her chewing on, the toys you provide must be safe too. If your rabbit is interested in eating one type (e.g. plastic, cardboard, etc.) of toy, switch to another type. Watch for soft rubber items or plastic parts that can be eaten and cause gastrointestinal problems or blockages. While your rabbit will likely enjoy shredding paper and cardboard, make sure he/she is not ingesting much of it. A huge variety of items can make good rabbit toys. You might not find them marketed as rabbit toys, and some are things you will have around the house. Be creative and pay attention to how your rabbit seems to like to play, and you may come up with ideas of your own (just pay close attention to safety). Some ideas:
Thumping:When a rabbit thumps or stomps on the ground with a hind leg, it can make a surprisingly loud noise. This is the way rabbits commuicate danger to other rabbits, and sometimes it is a sign of annoyance. Interpretation: "I'm scared and nervous" or "I'm annoyed with you."Teeth Grinding:Gentle, soft grinding of the teeth in a relaxed rabbit is communicates contentment (and sounds almost like a cat purring). On the other hand, loud teeth grinding is a sign of pain or discomfort, and your rabbit will often also be tense or hunched up when this occurs. Interpretation: softly grinding teeth: "This is great" Loudly grinding teeth: "Oooh, I'm in pain and I don't feel good" (this also means a trip to the vet is in order as soon as possible)Chin Rubbing:You may witness your rabbit rubbing its chin on objects or even people. Rabbits have scent glands on their chins that they use to scent mark territories and objects (the scent is not detectable by people, though, the scent is strictly for rabbit communication). Interpretation: "This is mine!"Binky:The binky is the unique and acrobatic jump accompanied by twisting the body or kicking the legs. Rabbits use the binky to communicate that they are feeling very happy and playful. Interpretation: "Life is Great! I'm so Happy!" Licking :A bunny that licks you has fully accepted you and is showing you affection. Interpretation: "I like you"Circling Your Feet:A rabbit that follows you around circling your feet may just be trying to get your attention, but more likely your rabbit is sexually mature and is courting you (especially if accompanied by soft honking or oiking noises).Interpretation: Usually mean "I'm in love with you" and means it is time to get bunny spayed or neutered. Sometimes simply means "Here I am, let's play."Flat Rabbit:When a rabbit flattens itself on its belly with its head down and ears held very flat, he or she is frightened and is trying to blend into his or her surroundings. (Note: a relaxed rabbit may also lay flat, but a relaxed rabbit has different body language: relaxed muscles and expression.) Interpretation: "I'm scared!"Flopping :A content rabbit that is sitting still or grooming may suddenly flop onto its side and lay still. Owners often fear something dire has happened, but it is a sign of utter relaxation. Interpretation: "oh, I'm just so relaxed."Lunging:A sudden movement towards you with the head up, tail up and ears back is a very clear form of rabbit communication: an unmistakable threat.Interpreation: "I don't like that, back off!" Vocalizations:Rabbits are capable of some vocalizations that they use for communication, which sometimes surprise owners. Here are their interpretations:Soft Squeal or Whimper: mild annoyance or displeasure.Grunting, Growling, Snorting, and Hissing: all communicate varied stages of anger, stress, or feeling threatened. May be followed with a lunge or bite. Soft Honking or Oinking: commuicates sexual interest. If your rabbit is circling you and honking, it is time for neutering.Screaming: sign of extreme pain or fear. Do not ignore; reassure your rabbit and if there is no obvious reason your rabbit might be terrified, take your bunny to a vet. Of course, rabbit body language is much more complex than what I have presented here. Rabbits communicate much information by how they position and move their bodies, and an experienced owner can learn to read their rabbit's signals quite well. Rabbits usually take well to litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training. The Litter First a suitable litter is needed. You rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is ideal. Do not use clay or clumping litters, or cedar or pine wood shavings. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are a good choice (brands include Critter Country, Eco-Straw Pellets, Gentle Touch, Cell-Sorb Plus and Yesterday's News - see Top Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings for more options) Some owners simply use rabbit pellets as litter. These are economical and safe, but are not a good choice if your rabbit continually eats extra pellets from the litter box and/or is overweight. The Box For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). The larger size of corner litter boxes might work well for smaller rabbits too, as these usually have fairly high backs. If our rabbit tends to tip the pan or kick the litter out, try a heavier litter. Steps to Litter TrainingTo start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. At first, keep your rabbit primairly in his (or her cage), which should be fairly small at first, with a litter pan. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where you rabbit eliminates. He (she) may start using the box, or may be pick another corner of the cage as a toilet. If this is the case, then move the litter box to the area your rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage. Once your rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited area. Provide a litter box within this area, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch your rabbit for signs he is about to urinate or defecate (they usually back up and lift their tail slightly), and try to herd him to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place him right in the box). If your rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat (food, toy, petting, or praise) right away. If you notice your rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here. Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. Your rabbit will absolutely not be able to make a connection with physical punishment and elimitnating outside the litter box. If you catch your rabbit in the act calmly and gently take him or her to the litter box immediately. But, if your don't physically catch your rabbit urinating or defecating, it is too late for your rabbit to make the connection. Just clean up and watch your rabbit a little more closely next time (clean the spot diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover). The key is to get your rabbit to the box before he goes, so a trip to the litter box every 10 minutes during playtime can be helpful. Over time, your rabbit will probably develop a preference for using the box, and amount of freedom you give your rabbit can be increased. You may need to provide more boxes as you allow your rabbit acces to more space (rabbits may not go far in search of a box so have them handy). Again, if your rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider putting or moving a litter box there. Try to work with what your rabbit naturally wants to do, but if the location they "choose" is inconvenient, you can try putting a litter box there for a while and then gradually move it to a better spot. Sometimes, placing a bowl of food where you don't want them to go works too. The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means backtracking and restricting freedom until your rabbit is trained again. Rabbits like to chew, and the most important task in rabbit proofing is to make sure there is nothing dangerous within your rabbit's reach. You will also want to protect your belongings from your rabbit. You will have to decide how much freedom your bunny will have. This might depend on your bunny's age, training, and the level of supervision you can provide. Some bunnies are given access to most of the house, but many owners prefer to limit their rabbit to a single room for out-of-the-cage time. Even if you want to give your bunny full access to your house, you might want start off confining him or her to a single room until bunny is litter trained and you have gotten a handle on chewing and other undesirable behaviors. Get Down To Your Bunny's LevelOne of the most helpful ways to identify what might attract your rabbit's attention is to get on your hands and knees and look at the house from that perspective. From there you might spot hazards and spaces that you normally wouldn't notice. Electrical and Phone CordsThese are seemingly irresistible to many rabbits. Because of the risk of elecrocution to your rabbit and your home's safety, it is imperative that electrical cords are out of reach. It may be possible to arrange the furniture in your room to hide most electrical cords (but don't run them under carpets due to fire risk). Any that cannot be hidden should be covered. Plastic tubing with a slit down one side in available to encase wires, or you can find different diameters of tubing at hardware and pond supply stores (which you can slit with a utility knife). You can also get hard plastic wire channels that attach neatly to the floor or baseboard. For determined rabbits you might even need to go to PVC tubing to protect wires. Have a look at many options for hiding wires at CableOrganizers.com. You can treat phone cords the same way. HouseplantsHouseplants should be kept out of reach to prevent rabbits from eating them and/or digging in the soil. Make sure your houseplants are non toxic; even if the plant is out of reach, leaves may fall where your rabbit can eat them. Check this list of poisonous plants from the San Diego Chapter of the House Rabbit Society, and remove any that are of concern. ChewingRabbits will try to chew anything. As mentioned previously, cords are a favorite target, but rabbits will also chew furniture (expecially wooden legs), baseboards, books, carpet edges, and anything else that appeals to them. Try to block access to any favorite chewing targets. Wooden furniture legs can be wrapped in heavy plastic or tin foil to discourage chewing. Carpets should be securely tacked down, especially in corners and at doorways. If your rabbit starts chewing, you can cover the carpet in trouble areas with plexiglass, plastic carpet protectors meant to go under office chairs, a piece of furniture, or untreated grass mats. Heavy slipcovers or blankets can be used to protect couches and chairs. Make sure books, treasured knick knacks, shoes, and other chewables are kept out of reach. Also make sure your rabbit can't get into your garbage cans or waste baskets. Distraction and redirection to appropriate chew toys are used to teach rabbits not to chew. DiggingRabbits also love digging, and may do significant damage to carpets or furniture from this activity. Favorite spots seem to be corners and under closed doors, although your rabbit may try to dig anywhere. Deal with digging behaviors in much the same way as chewing: block off problem areas, cover favorite spots with plexiglass, plastic mats, or untreated grass mats, and make sure carpets are securely tacked down. Hiding SpotsRabbits like to get into tight spaces. They like to hide under furniture and beds, but sometimes they chew and climb up into the underside of these items, so you may need to tack a piece of plywood to the underside of your boxspring mattress or use wood to block access to the underside of furniture. Appliances should be inaccessible, as rabbits can get under or behind them and become injured, stuck, or chew on the wires. Also block any other tight spaces in which your bunny could get stuck, and make sure there are no spaces throught which your rabbit could escape. Question: How Can I Train My Rabbit Not to Chew Everything in Sight?Chewing is a very natural and needed behavior for rabbits -- the key is to teach them what is appropriate for chewing and what is off-limits.Answer: 1. Provide AlternativesSince your rabbit needs to chew, first you need to provide a good variety of alternatives on which your rabbit can safely chew. Branches from apple or willow trees, safe rabbit toys, untreated willow baskets and toys, untreated grass mats, and cardboard all make good alternatives. Providing multiple items gives your rabbit more choice and if you have different sizes and types of chew toys around, chances are one of them will satisfy your rabbit's craving to chew. Of course, you should also provide your rabbit with a couple of safe chew toys in the cage as well. A variety items to help keep your rabbit occupied can be found in "Rabbit Toys." 2. Rabbit-Proof Your HomeGood rabbit-proofing takes away much of the temptation and opportunity to get into trouble. Don't give your rabbit free run of your home, at least not at first: pick a limited space and thoroughly rabbit-proof that space to make training easier. Things like electrical wires are very dangerous for your rabbit so you must make sure there is no way your rabbit can get to them in the first place. Furniture and other belongings should also be protected. The less your rabbit can demolish, the less frustrated you will be, and training will be smoother. See "Rabbit-Proofing Your Home" for more strategies. 3. Supervise and RedirectYour rabbit doesn't instinctively know that he is not allowed to chew on your furniture and other belongings, so you must teach him. This means when you are starting out with a new rabbit, you must watch your rabbit carefully at playtime. Make sure you start this training as soon as you bring your rabbit home, so no bad habits get started. Whenever your rabbit tries to chew something he/she should not, say "no" firmly (no need to yell) and clap your hands, and then give your rabbit an appropriate chew toy. 4. Have PatienceYour rabbit will take time to learn, and he or she will probably test you along the way, so be patient but consistent. Never hit your rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going back to your things instead of chewing on her toys, put your bunny in a "time-out" in the cage for a few minutes. Another alternative is to use an exercise pen (collapsible, portable cage for dogs) for at least part of playtime outside of the cage, so you can relax on supervision and training a bit. As your rabbit gets older and settles down, chewing will become less of an issue, but consistency and patience right from the beginning is your biggest training advantage. 5. Spay and NeuterSpaying or neutering rabbits helps make them less prone to destructive behavior, including chewing. Note: about Bitter Apple Spray and other Deterrents:You can try using a bitter apple spray (available at pet stores) on items your rabbit likes to chew. Many rabbits don't mind the taste, though (and some even seem to like it), so while this may be worth a try, is often not effective. If it does work with your rabbit, the spray must be re-applied frequently. It is difficult to create a list of poisonous plants. While some plants are outright toxic to anyone who eats or comes in contact with the plant (Jimson Weed, nightshade), others may cause a reaction in some but not in others. The following is a listing of plants normally thought to be poisonous. The list is not complete. People should not eat plants not grown as food crops. Children should be taught never to eat non-food crop plants. And you should restrict your pets' access to questionable plants. Poisonous plants vary between animals. Don't assume that since a bird, squirrel or pig ate a plant with no problems, others (human or rabbit) can do the same. Unless otherwise stated, consider all parts of the plant poisonous. Never hesitate to seek medical aid if you think a person or animal has ingested a poisonous substance. Agave (leaves) Amaryllis (bulbs) Apple (seeds) Azalea Bird of Paradise (seeds) Bloodroot Buttercup (leaves) Black Locust (seeds) Boxwood (leaves/twigs) Buckeye (seeds) Buckthorn (berries) Caladium Calla (rhizome) Castor Bean (seed) Christmas Rose Cone Flower Crown of Thorns Daffodil Daphne Delphinium Dumbcane (Dieffenbachia) Eggplant (plant) Elderberry (unripe berries) Elephant Ear Flowering Tobacco Foxglove Holly (berries) Horsechestnut (nuts) Hyacinth Iris Ivy, Boston & English (berries) Jack-in-the-Pulpit Jerusalem Cherry Jimson Weed Jonquil Lantana Larkspur Lily-of-the-Valley Lupine Mayapple Mistletoe (berries) Morning Glory (seeds) Mustard (root) Narcissus Nicotiana Nightshade Oleander Philodendron Poison Hemlock Poison Ivy Potato (green) Privet (berries) Ranunculus Rhododendron Rhubarb (leaf blade) Rosary Pea (seed) Snow-on-the-Mountain Sweet Pea (seeds) Sweet Potato Skunk Cabbage Tansy Tomato (leaves) Tulip Virginia Creeper (berries) Water Hemlock Wisteria (seeds/pods) Yew (berries) Encephalitozoon Cuniculi E. cuniculi has been one of the hottest topics in rabbit health over the past few years. It's also one of the most controversial! Many experts are convinced that E. cuniculi is a major rabbit health issue, responsible for a whole host of rabbit health problems. However, this opinion is not universal: some vets think this parasite rarely causes serious trouble. We now know that E. cuniculi infection is very common in apparently healthy pet rabbits (see later in this article) therefore the belief that E. cuniculi can cause serious problems, but only in a minority of infected rabbits, is likely to become more popular again. Although a certain amount is known about the parasite itself, most information regarding E. cuniculi problems in companion rabbits is anecdotal and therefore open to debate. It was as recently as 2001 that the first firm evidence was published to support the treatment of this condition in rabbits using anti-parasitic drugs. So where do we draw the line between hype and real bunny health problems? What is E. cuniculi? It's a parasite - a small protozoan that lives inside the body cells of its host. It doesn't just infect rabbits: many other mammals (including humans in some special circumstances), and even birds can be infected. Does E. cuniculioccur in Britain? Yes, it does, and we now know it is widespread in the UK. A recent major research project run by Emma Keeble at Edinburgh Vet School (and supported financially by the Rabbit Welfare Fund) set out to determine what percentage of 'healthy' British pet rabbits that have exposed to E. cuniculi. At the time of writing (late 2004) the full results of the study are being prepared for publication. However, Emma's study found that just over 50% of apparently healthy rabbits had been exposed to E cuniculi infection. A small sample, frequently quoted sample, performed by Frances Harcourt Brown a few years ago, showed that 8 of 30 rabbits in her Yorkshire practice showing serological evidence of exposure to E. cuniculi. However, Frances later felt that in hindsight some of these animals had very subtle neurological signs and may not have been the "healthy" sample she had intended. This illustrates the difficulties vets face in trying to find an accurate figure for prevalence of exposure/infection in healthy animals. How do rabbits get infected with E. cuniculi? It is likely that the majority of rabbits are infected at a very early age from their mother. The route of infection is orally via ingestion of urine contaminated by E. cuniculi spores. One month after infection, a rabbit will start to shed spores in its urine. Shedding of spores continues for up to three months and possibly on and off for life. The spores are tough little things and remain in the environment for more than a month. There's not much you can do to avoid obtaining a rabbit with E. cuniculi. If you are determined, you could consider having any potential new bunny blood tested before adoption. In the long term, it might be possible to reduce the percentage of infected rabbits - either by treating breeding rabbits with drugs to kill off E. cuniculi, or by weaning baby rabbits very early, to prevent them being infected by their mother. However, proper studies would needed to address these options, and weigh up their effectiveness as well as the risk and benefits to the rabbits. What happens when a rabbit becomes infected? When a rabbit is first infected, the parasite is absorbed from the intestines. Once inside the body, it heads off to other organs, especially the kidneys and brain, where it causes lesions called "granulomas". These can be found in the kidneys of rabbits only a few months old. Granulomas may develop in other parts of the body, such as the liver, as well as in the brain. It all sounds very drastic, but at the current time, consensus opinion would seem to be that the majority of infected rabbits probably go through life quite happily without experiencing any problems from their E. cuniculi infection and associated granulomas. However, please note the word "consensus" - some vets do believe that most (if not all) E cuniculi infected rabbits will encounter problems as they grow older. Although this is a minority view, we won't know for definite unless a study is performed to monitor a cohort of apparently healthy rabbits - already known to have been exposed to E cuniculi - throughout their lives. Now that awareness of E cuniculi is rising on both sides of the Atlantic - and labs processing the blood samples from pet bunnies are starting to include E cuniculi serology in their routine blood testing panels - it is hopeful that we will gain a much better picture of the next few years. What kind of problems can E. cuniculi cause? As mentioned above, although it is thought by most experts that the majority of rabbits infected with E. cuniculi remain well, a small percentage of bunnies are not so lucky. Renal (kidney) granulomas are usually harmless, although a few rabbits develop mild chronic renal failure with problems such as increasing thirst and weight loss. It's the lesions in the brain that tend to cause problems. The range of possible neurological presentations is immense but some examples are:
E. cuniculi can also affect the eyes. If unborn baby rabbits become infected via the placenta, granulomas may develop around the lens and cause problems after birth. Affected rabbits sometimes have white patches visible in the eye. One of difficulties in trying to decide whether E. cuniculi is the cause of any specific problem is that every one of these neurological problems has other possible (and common) causes. For example, head tilt is often caused by bacterial infections such as Pasteurella multocida, but can be caused by a multitude of other problems. Some texts suggest that head tilt in dwarf breeds is more likely to be caused by E.cuniculi and in larger breeds by Pasteurella although this is also controversial. But both infections are so common it may be impossible to differentiate which (if either) is the cause of head tilt in any particular rabbit. And some bunnies may have both! How would I know if my bunny has E. cuniculi? Antibodies to E. cuniculi can be detected on a blood test. Hence, a rabbit that has been infected to E cuniculi will produce antibodies that will produce a positive test. However, some rabbits appear to clear the infection completely and over time their blood test will become negative again. Until very recently, the tests available in the UK could not distinguish between current and past infection. A negative result basically ruled out E. cuniculi as the cause of the illness but a positive result only told you that the bunny had been infected at some point in time, and did not help to determine whether the infection was recent and ongoing. However, quantitative tests, which can actually measure the levels of antibody in the blood sample (not just whether they are there are not) recently became available in the UK, introduced by Medlab in Cheshire. By testing two separate samples (taken with an interval between then) it is now possible to determine if a rabbit is mounting an immune response to an active E. cuniculi infection. If your rabbit develops a problem that may be due to E. cuniculi then your vet may suggest blood testing. If the rabbit tests positive, it's probably worth adding treatment for E. cuniculi to see if it improves the situation. Is there any treatment for E. cuniculi? Yes and no! The first hurdle, alluded to above, is determining whether or not E. cuniculi is the cause of any particular problem. It is usually impossible to be certain, unless a post mortem examination is performed if the rabbit should die. Even if E. cuniculi seems the likely culprit, anecdotal reports suggest that some cases improve without treatment. Treating rabbits with drugs to kill off E.cuniculi is a much more recent development. For several years, rabbit vets both here and in the USA claimed good results with drugs such as albendazole and fenbendazole, which are used as worming treatments in other species. It should be noted they are not currently licensed for use in rabbits in the UK. A landmark study published in the Veterinary Record in April 2001(see reference)offered perhaps the first evidence that treatment of E cuniculi with fenbendazole (Panacur) in rabbits really does work - and has led to a more pro-active approach in treating this problem in rabbits. This study considered the use of fenbendazole (at a dose of 20 mg/kg body weight daily for 28days) for preventing an experimental infection of E. cuniculi in rabbits. Fenbendazole given prior to exposure to the parasite successfully prevented infection, and this may be a way of controlling infection in colonies/groups of rabbits where some animals have the disease and others aren't yet infected. The second part of the same paper looked at rabbits with naturally acquired E. cuniculi infection. Following treatment with fenbendazole, E. cuniculi parasites were no longer present (detectable). The authors of the paper went on to suggest that in order to improve the treatment of E. cuniculi in rabbits, the combination of fenbendazole and glucocorticoids (steroids) could be valuable and should be examined in a controlled study. There's a catch, though. Although the parasite may be killed by drugs such as fenbendazole, the bunny may not actually get any better. This is because the brain inflammation associated with the parasite may have already caused irreversible damage. This is why steroid treatment has been suggested, in an effort to damp down this inflammatory response. Opponents point out that "damping down" the immune system with steroids could allow the underlying parasitic infection to get worse. Hence, it is probably safest to use steroids only in conjunction with fenbendazole and not as sole therapy, until more evidence is available. E. cuniculi infection is (probably) so common that some vets feel that there may be a case for treating all rabbits just in case they are infected. Others argue that such a small percentage of infected rabbits go on to develop problems, that there is no need to treat unless problems actually show up, even if they are known to have been exposed to E cuniculi. Be guided by your rabbit-friendly vet, but appreciate that the whole issue is fraught with controversy and opinions are changing rapidly. Is there any risk to human health? Only if you are severely immunocompromised. For example, there are reports of people with AIDS suffering from E. cuniculi infection. People with normal immune systems don't need to worry. If you have a medical condition that makes you severely immunocompromised, it might be worth having your bunny blood tested and having him treated if he tests positive. Consider asking your immunologist to talk to your vet. If one of a bonded pair of rabbits has died from E. cuniculi should the survivor be treated? This is another controversial question…different vets give different answers, depending on their personal beliefs. Vets who believe that the majority of infected rabbits go through life without any problems tend not to recommend routine treatment of the survivor, unless goes in to develop problems that may be caused by E. cuniculi. However, other vets do recommend treating the survivor, especially since the publication of the Vet Record paper in April 2001, which implied that treatment of survivors may be beneficial. If you keep rabbits in a colony setting, it's probably sensible to raise food off the floor, which will reduce the risk of food becoming contaminated with urine and hence E. cuniculi spores. You may also want to think about blood testing all the rabbits in the group and keeping E. cuniculi negative rabbits separate from those who test positive. What's the upshot? Although knowledge about E cuniculi is increasing, there are still more questions than answers when it comes to E. cuniculi. However, now we know that so many apparently healthy rabbits are infected, it is quite possible that this disease is actually less of a problem than we had feared, and that most infected rabbits end up as asymptomatic carriers. Rabbit owners do need to be aware of the problem, but should try not to get too paranoid. Hopefully over the next few years, more definite recommendations will emerge. In the meantime, if your bunny should fall sick with what might be an E. cuniculi related problem, do have him blood tested - bear in mind that with the new quantitative tests, your vet may recommend two tests taken a few weeks apart. If he tests positive, your vet will probably want to try treatment with fenbendazole and perhaps steroids. If you should suffer the sadness of losing a rabbit under these circumstances, please consider having a post mortem examination performed, so we take more steps in the quest to unravel exactly what impact this parasite may be having on the welfare of all our rabbits. References and Further Reading Suter C., Muller-Doblies U.U., Hatt J-M., Deplazes P., (2001) Prevention and Treatment of Encephalitozoon cuniculi in rabbits with fenbendazole. Veterinary Record 148, pgs 478-480 Hillyer E. V. and Quesenberry K.E. (1997) Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents,Clinical Medicine and Surgery. W.B Saunders, Philadelphia. Flecknell P.A. (2000). BSAVA Manual of Rabbit Medicine and Surgery. BSAVA. Acknowledgements & Revision History The original version of this article was written by Dr Linda Dykes and Owen Davies. It first appeared in "Rabbiting On", the journal of the British Houserabbit Association, Summer 2000. It was revised again in October 2001 (with contributions by Hannah Orr) and most recently in September 2004. We would like to thank: Frances Harcourt Brown, Sally Walshaw, Dana Krempels and Nancy la Roche, all of whom shared their thoughts on E. cuniculi with us which assisted greatly in the preparation of the original article; Emma Keeble and Judith Brown for their comments on this version (September 2004); All the owners of rabbits who took part in the Edinburgh Vet School/ RWF E. Cuniculi survey. Life isn't about how to survive the storm, it's about learning to dance in the rain.
My beautiful girl Maddy, while nursing her 5 3 week old babies, came down with a case of wry neck, also known in the rabbit and vet community as pasturella and vestibular disease. Because I know my rabbits and I know what to look for with this condition due to previous experiences with one special Mini Lop who I lost to this horrible condition October 16th, 2010, I was able to catch and treat it before any majr complications arose. Many breeders and professionals gave me little to no hope mentioning culling or killing my entire heard of PETS BEFORE SHOW rabbits and starting over again. I refuse to give up hope as I know they can live happy healthy lives even after their exposure to it. Maybe we were supposed to meet the wrong people before meeting the right
one so that, when we finally meet the right person, we will know how to be grateful for that gift! Maybe when the door of happiness closes, another opens; but, often times, we look so long at the closed door that we do not even see the new one which has been opened for us! Maybe it is true that we do not know what we have until we lose it, but it is also true that we do not know what we have been missing until it arrives! Maybe the happiest of people do not necessarily have the best of everything; they just make the most of everything that comes along their way! Maybe the brightest future will always be based on a forgotten past; after all, you cannot go on successfully in life until you let go of your past mistakes, failures and heartaches! Maybe you should dream what you want to dream; go where you want to go, be what you want to be, because you have only one life and one chance to do all the things you dream of, and want to do! Maybe there are moments in life when you miss someone; a parent, a spouse, a friend, a child; so much that you just want to pick them from your dreams and hug them for real, so that once they are around you appreciate them more! Maybe the best kind of friend is the kind you can sit on a porch and swing with, never say a word, and then walk away feeling like it was the best conversation you have ever had! What you want will happen, so will what you fear. Stay focused, positive, loving & fearless.
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AuthorI currently Volunteer through Dark Star Wildlife Nursery wildlife rescue to aid in saving the lives of wildlife who would otherwise be left motherless or worse. Archives
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