How are YOU planning to take on the New Year?
Join me in the fight against buying Rabbits and all animals for Easter and all other holidays and Birthdays. An animal is not a gift, it is a family member and while not all animals are tossed away after being given as a gift, the hard reality is that most end up in shelters, dumped or sadly killed because the person or children have simply lost interest in them. The Bark Post recently did an article that really spiked my interest on the fact that we, as humans, see our dogs as family but what about the other way around? The article shows the findings of several studies that have been done to see if dogs consider their humans family. As a new puppy owner establishing a bond with the newest pup I have often wondered just how deep a dogs love is for its person and if they would even notice if someone else came home to feed them other than us. It is obvious that our dogs love us by the way they look at us with their big eyes and in their actions towards us but I often wonder if their feelings are the same for me as mine are for them. You can read the article here or follow the hyperlink for Bark Post to view the entire article at The Bark Post itself. My heart breaks to kiss that big blocky head one more time, to use him as a pillow, to hear his heavy breathing in the hallway as we go to bed. Most of all, I just want him back. All of him. Even the slobber and hair everywhere, his stubbornness in not wanting to listen and the way he looked at us absolutely in love. Case will forever have taken one more part of my heart away. IF WE DECIDE TO BREED OUR DOE, WHAT DO WE DO WITH THE BABIES?
That is the very best question to ask before you breed a rabbit. You need a plan to dispose of the litter unless you plan to be over-run with rabbits. There will be a better market for puebred rabbits than crossbeeds so keep that in mind. A lot of people I know have been dealing with bloat in their rabbits lately which has inspired me to write another blog about it adding several new items that I have learned since my last post on the subject.
-Consider carefully before purchasing a rabbit-
It can be tempting to impulsively buy lop-eared rabbits because of their adorable looks, but consider if this is the right pet for you before you purchase it. Rabbits live for around nine to eleven years, and require attention and care for all of these years. Other things to keep in mind include:
-Purchase a rabbit- Find a breeder in your area who sells rabbits, or consider giving an older rabbit a home first.
-Choose a rabbit that is healthy-
Do not get me wrong, I am completely FOR animal rescue, but I am not for what PETA stands for and does. They have been causing more deaths than they save lives for YEARS and I have no idea how people can follow them so blindly! Support your local rescues, support shelters and humane societies but please, do not support these people. Do your research. Find the facts. And come to your own conclusion. Everything I have found has been nothing but negative on them. I stand by my animal rescues and I support rescues, I will NOT support PETA please join the fight against PETA and help save the lives of the animals they are killing.
I have added the link in at the end of this blog for anyone wanting to check out the site. http://www.petakillsanimals.com/proof-peta-kills/ September 23rd, 2014 marks the first day of fall. As we transition into another season of beautiful color changing leaves and crisp autumn air. Last night to enjoy our one last day of summer we took the pups on a walk to enjoy the beautiful weather. It is not often that the weather works out like that but it did. This will be the first fall for us as a family. Between us being newlyweds and both pups having not experienced a fall yet it will be exciting! This will be a big year for firsts for sure! Case's first birthday, Stella's first Christmas, and our first year of being married. I can not wait to experience all of the firsts to come! I recently stumbled across a blog that raised this question and it occurred to me that there really is no cut and dry answer for this. Some people may argue otherwise but in my opinion, it depends on the individual dog. We recently added a Great Pyrenees puppy to our family December of 2013 and upon his first Vet visit the vet urged us to neuter him at 12 weeks AND have his double dews removed. Great Pyrenees are the only breed supposed to have them. My husband and I felt off about this decision as the last vet I had urged us not to alter a large breed before 6 months of age as it can cause major issues in bone development. I decided to do a little research on my OWN. I found that not only should I NOT alter him at 12 weeks but I found out that his breed specifically should not be altered before 8 months of age due to a unique molar they have that doesn't come in until then and they need all of their hormones to push them out as well as it can negatively impact his bone density as he grows. Without them it can cause some serious jaw issues according to a reputable Pyr Breeder. I also found out that you should NOT have a Great Pyrs double dews removed as it can cripple them and cause early onset of arthritis and tendinitis. I decided to look for a new vet. My current Vet stays up to date on the studies that are being conducted on the pros and cons of neutering large breeds too early. He has suggested that anything classified as a large breed should not be altered before 6 months old due to the chances of something being caused by it. He is not set one way or the other but as he told me, "There are no bad things claimed about waiting until 6 months that are caused but there are many bad things claimed that are caused by it". To me, I would rather be safe than sorry and wait a little longer and if you are observant and responsible enough an unwanted litter will not happen in that time. WHY are we being urged to alter our beloved pets before they are fully mature when it has the potential to cause severe health issues down the line or issues that are unknown to us at this time. Case and Stella are happy and healthy puppies right now and we made the right choice for THEM and excluded anyone else's thoughts and opinions on the matter due to the fact WE have the emotional attachment to them not the next person. They are our responsibility and it is our duty to do what we feel is right for them at that time and with the information that is at hand. All I can say is trust your gut not always the professionals! Just because they say it is right does not mean it is right for your pet. The story that started it all. Check out the kids book "Milo & Me" if you have not already done so now. You can purchase it athttp://bookstore.authorhouse.com/Products/SKU-000547618/Milo--Me.aspx The story of the bond between this special rabbit and his owner is priceless and a portion of proceeds go to Homeward Bound Canine rescue (not Heading Home) and Angel of Hope Feline rescue. It is the first in a series and with each Series a new rescue/shelter that is in need of help will be chosen to receive a portion of proceeds. Please share this story with others to help get it out there to help as many rescues as possible. Milo is no longer with us but I am hoping his life can help change the life of another animal.
Yesterday was national pet memorial Day and along with the many pets I've lost over the years I payed tribute to my little Maximilian whom we lost all too soon in his life. In those few short months he was with us he touched the lives of many people and changed my life. #miloandme #frenchlop #memorial #petmemorial Breath"Breath. You're going to be okay. Breath, and remember that you've been in this place before. You've been uncomfortable, and anxious, and scared and you've survived it. Breath and know you can survive this too. These feelings can't break you. They're painful and debilitating, but you can sit with them and eventually, they will pass. Maybe not immediately, but sometime soon, they are going to fade and when they do, you'll look back at this moment and laugh for having doubted you're resilience. I know it feels unbearable right now, but keep breathing, again and again. This will pass. I promise it will pass."
I found this posted to instagram by Leah Turner music and it speaks volumes. Every person has been here whether it has been in their career, a relationship, etc. It gives hope and power to those feeling as though they can not survive what ever their struggle is at the moment. I wanted to share this saying with y'all in hopes that if it helps even one person then it has made a difference. Keep pushing through whatever struggles you are facing and know there will be a rainbow at the end of your storm. All across America, the national 4-H project is helping young rabbit owners grow into responsible adults. There are currently over 6.5 million members enrolled in this youth program. Established in 1914, 4-H helps members develop skills in agriculture, horticulture, homemaking, and the arts; and then offers them the chance to show off those skills through fairs and competitions. The rabbit program is an important part of the 4-H curriculum, and if you or your child would like to be successful in raising rabbits for 4-H, here are some pointers to help you get started. Do you need purebred rabbits to show in 4-H?
The answer to this question is yes and no. It depends on what type of classes you want to enter, as well as the regulations for your area. 4-H is managed on county-wide and state-wide levels, and each region has its own way of doing things. In general, breed competitions are usually judged by the ARBA Standard of Perfection, so to compete in these classes, you need to have a purebred rabbit recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. However, some fairs may have a mixed breed class in addition to the purebred classes. Also, you may be able to use mixed or crossbreed rabbits in meat pen (market pen) or showmanship competitions. Check with your local club leader or extension office to learn the regulations for your region. Remember though, that whether or not your area will allow mixed breed rabbits, you will probably have better success by buying purebreds. Where to Buy Rabbits to Show in 4-H. If you are beginning a 4-H rabbit project, the best place to buy rabbits is from a local breeder. If possible, buy bunnies from a breeder in your immediate area. That way you can develop a relationship with the breeder and he or she can be there to help if you run into problems down the road. Also, this gives you a chance to visit their farm (if they invite you over) and see how they manage their rabbitry, which can give you ideas on how to start your own project. Finally, there's a good chance that a breeder in your county is familiar with the fair you plan to show at, and will know the classes they accept. One of the best places to get in touch with local breeders is through online Rabbit Breeder Directories. Most fairs have their own regulations when it comes to dividing rabbits for judging. It's important to know what classes they offer so you can know how to buy and breed your stock. Some fairs divide rabbit classes by fancy (small) and commercial (large) breeds. Others judge each breed separately like an ARBA sanctioned show. In fact, some fair shows are also ARBA sanctioned. Some allow mixed breed rabbits and others do not. Some fairs have "get of sire" or "get of dam" classes, where you can show a senior rabbit with its junior offspring. Almost all fairs offer market classes such asmeat pens, single fryers, and commercial fur. Most have rabbit showmanship competitions, and some have extra contests for youth participants such as judging, quiz bowl, skill-a-thon, or royalty. Narrow down which classes you would like to enter before you purchase your stock. Then look for a respected breeder in your area that raises the type of rabbits you would like to show. Start looking for a breeder as soon as possible; don't delay even for a few weeks. Some breeders have waiting lists of customers and it might take several months before you can get stock from them. Contact them early to get on their list early, and also to make sure you don't miss the fair's deadline. Many fairs require exhibitors to have their rabbits on their own premises a couple of months before show day. That way they can be sure that the showman is responsible for the rabbit's current health and condition. Never purchase a rabbit if you detect any red flags about the bunny or the breeder. Don't be afraid to ask the breeder questions: if they won't help you with your questions, they are not someone you want to buy from. Check the rabbit over thoroughly for health issues or disqualifications. Always, always check its teeth, toenails, and sex before agreeing to bring it home. Even well-meaning breeders can make mistakes when sexing a rabbit or looking it over for disqualifications, and you don't want to find out too late. If it's your first time buying rabbits, bring your 4-H leader or other mentor along with you to get their opinion about the bunnies. Care of a 4-H Rabbit Project Once you have your rabbits home, your only job is to keep them in top condition until show day. Here are the five top rules for preparing your rabbit for fair: 1. Use the proper equipment. Only use all-wire cages. These are much less likely to cause urine stains on your rabbit than solid bottomed cages. They also keep your rabbit's environment cleaner and reduce ammonia. If you plan to breed your rabbits, make sure you have a nest box ready at least a week before your doe is due to deliver. 2. Feed a healthy and consistent diet. People will spend a long time looking at feed bag labels trying to determine the healthiest diet for their rabbits. While that is admirable, sometimes the freshness of the feed and the consistency of the nutrition are more important than the brand of pellets. Ideally, show rabbits should have a diet low in protein and fat and high in fiber. Free-choice timothy hay is an excellent addition to any rabbit's meal. Always make sure the feed is fresh; rabbits will not condition well on stale pellets. A healthy base diet is more effective at getting your rabbit in top condition than any supplements you could throw in. 3. Provide the proper environment. Proper housing doesn't stop at a well-made cage. The cage must be located in an area with excellent ventilation. The surrounding temperature should not get above 85 degrees at any time of the year, at least unless you take measures to keep your rabbit cool and hydrated in hot weather. The cage can be kept outside, but must be protected from predators and precipitation. It must be kept in a quiet area so your rabbit will not be stressed. All these factors, if the rabbit is not protected from them, can compromise your bunny's immune system. It's also very important to keep the cage clean. Not only will this help prevent disease such as coccidiosis, but it will you're your rabbit's coat from getting stained. 4. Handle your rabbit often. This step must not be neglected if you want to be successful showing rabbits in 4-H. You must train your rabbit to pose, so it will look good for the judges. Rabbits can learn to pose themselves as soon as they are touched if you work long enough with them. If you are competing in rabbit showmanship, you should get your rabbit used to the routine, so it will cooperate with you on show day. Handling your rabbit is also very important because it allows you to check its health and condition daily. That way if your rabbit has any health problems, you can catch them early on. 5. Keep good records. Some 4-H leaders or county fairs will require you to show your project record book along with your rabbit. You might even win a prize for keeping good records! Even if record keeping is not a requirement, it's an excellent management practice and will help you raise better rabbits in the end. At bare minimum, you should keep pedigrees and breeding records for every rabbit you raise. Hint: grab some rabbitry management software to make your job easier. Beyond the Show Day Many 4-H members are "in it to win it" - and that's fine. It makes for healthy competition. But 4-H is about much more than winning Grand Champion. Even if you start because you want to compete, you will find that you learn many skills in 4-H that will help you your whole life. So even if you don't win first prize, take time to enjoy learning how to care for animals, enjoy the friendships you build with others in your club, and enjoy being a benefit to your community as you pledge your "hands to larger service." If you'd like more information on how to show rabbits in 4-H clubs, check out the Youth Rabbit Project Study Guide and Raising Meat Pen Rabbits Guide by Aaron Webster. Updated for 2013, this book gives expert tips about how to show your rabbit in Showmanship and compete in Breed ID and other 4-H competitions. Written by a two-time runner up for ARBA National Rabbit Queen. Originally shared by Rabbit Breeders The back part of a rabbit's hind foot is called the hock, and this area supports most of their weight. The hock is normally covered with a thick layer of fuzz, but sometimes this fur wears away, and the skin on the hocks break and bleed. Average rabbit owners call this condition "sore hocks."
Sore hocks can develop on any rabbit, but certain ones are more susceptible. Those would be the Rex-furred breeds (since they have short fine fur), the very large breeds (since they have more weight to bear), and excitable rabbits that stamp their feet a lot. It's is also said to be more common in rabbits that are housed in cages with wire floors. Put two of these factors together (i.e. Rex fur + wire floor) and you will need to be proactive if you want to prevent them. Unfortunately, once sore hocks have developed, they're very hard to treat. If the fur gets worn away, it will seldom grow back. Plus, since rabbits spend so much time on their feet, the skin doesn't have much of a chance to heal. So it is best to come up with a prevention plan. That plan doesn't have to include moving your rabbits to solid-floored cages. I don't even recommend it. The reason why most rabbits are housed on wire floors is because wire floors are best for them. Cleanest. Safest. Healthiest. In fact, I read a study from the World Rabbit Council (summarized several years ago in Domestic Rabbits magazine) that said rabbits seemed to actually prefer wire floors if given the option. Plastic resting mats (also known as EZ-Mats) are extremely popular with rabbit owners, and for good reason. They're simply hard plastic mats - made of quality, non-toxic ABS - that lay over the top of the cage floor, giving your rabbit a place to rest off the wire. They have very smooth surfaces; all the edges are carefully beveled to prevent wear on your rabbit's feet. And they are super sanitary. They have slots punched out that allow waste to fall right through into the drop pan. And if the mats ever get dirty, they're easy to wash with soap and water. Originally shared by Rabbit Breeders We have all had it. Someone says we aren't pretty enough, we weigh too much or too little, or maybe just that they don't like your style. That feeling of not good enough rears its ugly little head in even the most confident of us. People just assume it is in school and the social groups you are in that this is when it occurs, but what happens when it is in the work place?
We have all had that feeling at one point in our lives and it usually affects us negatively sometimes even catastrophically. But when it happens in the work place it has an entirely new affect on us. It not only makes you feel like you can not do the job properly but it also makes you feel discouraged to try again in that particular field. The feeling of not good enough is enough to over power even the most confident of people. You start to doubt yourself, who you are and what you do, your ability, the time you have spent learning and maybe even question if you made the right choice in career. As hard as it is, do NOT give in or give up. Keep pushing through the No's until you get to the Yes. Sometimes no matter how hard you work or how much you put into something, it is just never going to be enough for someone but there WILL be someone out there who it WILL be enough for. You just have to keep going until you find that person/place. One of my favorite quotes is "The only person who can keep you down is yourself" and it is so true, only you stand in your own way of happiness with these feelings of doubt and worthlessness. It is only in your mind that these things can become true. Don't let them win, USE IT. Use it as the force behind you to keep you going and prove them wrong. -Samantha When people start showing rabbits (I mean REALLY showing) they all want the same thing, to "win". No, it is not everything but I can imagine it is a very rewarding feeling after the excruciating hard work and money you have put in to get your lines started and established. I have only actually taken a BOB with a rabbit out of MY lines once and it was joyous beyond anything I had felt before, not because she had taken BOB but because of the rabbit itself that had taken it. That rabbit had been dubbed "pet" quality the year before and no one ever imagined she would have taken BOB in her life, not even me for that matter, until I decided to bring her along for the numbers. She was my bottle baby, my pride and joy and for her out of any of the others I had in my barn to have taken a BOB really made my heart soar. Some people only buy rabbits expecting to win with them at shows when the fact is, Breeders are usually not selling their best rabbits. That does not mean they are selling bad rabbits, only that they have worked hard to get the best and are going to keep the best to continue improving their lines. A beautiful, fluffy nest with warm bundles of healthy babies in it, it's what every breeder wants to see right? So what happens if that is not the case? Recently myself and other breeders have had problems with getting and keeping litters. From not getting any litters, getting a beautiful nest but no babies in it and getting babies and losing them it has been a frustrating battle! In MY battle to get litters I found that my feed may have been the culprit. Slowly I transitioned my herd over to another feed to see if it would help. Whalla! I got my first two litters and large ones at that! I wish it had been as simple as just switching the feed. Shortly after the birth of litter number two we started losing them. I found that my female had not gotten any milk in to feed the babies. Only 2.5 weeks after the birth my other female dried up leaving 5 orphaned baby bunnies for me to step in and care for. After the third litter and the mom not having any milk supply, I gave all types of supplemental foods such as veggies and oatmeal to try and boost milk production for the first 9 days with no success. As a last ditch effort I started sprinkling a calcium supplement on her feed and Oatmeal. Within the day her milk had come in full force and the three remaining babies survived. I started sprinkling the calcium supplement on all of the lactating moms as well as all females and babies and since have noticed a huge difference in their health, activity levels, milk production and the overall health and size of babies in the litters they are now finally having. I decided to start adding in some whole grains and more natural items for their diet such as Fodder, veggies, plants and grasses that are safe and good for them. With this new diet they have been doing much better and I have been able to keep weight on them more so than before. My conclusion is that there is something lacking in the feed or an ingredient in the feed that is not doing what it used to anymore and that was what was causing so many of my issues since with this new diet I have not have the issues I had had pre-diet. |
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AuthorI currently Volunteer through Dark Star Wildlife Nursery wildlife rescue to aid in saving the lives of wildlife who would otherwise be left motherless or worse. Archives
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